Silicones are inert, synthetic compounds with a variety of forms and uses. Typically heat-resistant and rubber-like, they are used in sealants, adhesives,lubricants, medical applications (e.g., breast implants), cookware, and insulation.
Silicones are polymers that include silicon together with carbon, hydrogen, oxygen, and sometimes other chemical elements. Some common forms includesilicone oil, silicone grease, silicone rubber, and silicone resin. Source
Ok, so that’s the scientific definition. Basically silicones, affectionately known as “cones” function (in hair products) to coat the hair shaft with a thin layer and allows the hair strands move freely past each other. In otherwords, it is what gives many hair products (non-natural) their slip.
According to The Science of Black Hair, “silicones have a lighter feel on hair than oils but can be more difficult to wash away. Silicones are primarily used to improve wet combing and enhance shine.”
Silicones also provide heat/thermal protection by reduces structural damage incurred from the use heat. They are also great for reducing frizz and preventing “reversion” in flat ironed/straigthened hair (hence the reason why most hair serums are filled with silicones). Finally they have been found to help hair color last longer.
Some naturals, especially those who follow the Curly Girl Method avoid silicones altogether because (some) silicones can build up on your hair shaft making it dry and prone to breakage. Not to mention making your scalp itchy…I have personally experienced this.
However, all silicones are not created equal. They fall into three categories water soluble, semi-water insoluble and water insoluble and they all function slightly differently.
- Silicones that are water soluble are dissolve and break apart easily once your hair is washed so they are not likely to build up on the hair shaft.
- Semi-water soluble silicones are slightly more difficult to remove with water because they create a waterproof barrier and require a mild shampoo ( low sulphate/sulphate free shampoo) to be removed.
- Silicones that are non-water soluble basically adhere to the hair shaft and have create buildup on your hair and scalp. These require a harsh detergent/surfactant (sulphate shampoo) to be removed.
Silicones in hair products typically have these endings..“cone”, “conol”, “col” or “zane“. Here’s a useful table I re-created from The Science of Black Hair book.
| Water Soluble Silicones Easily removed with Water | Semi-water Souble Silicones More difficult to remove with water | Water Insoluble Silicones Requires Sulphate Shampoo to be removed |
| Dimethicone copolyol | Cyclomethicone | Dimethicone |
| PEG/PPG Silicones *The PEG/PPG usually precedes the name | Cyclopentasiloxane | Dimethiconol |
| Lauryl methicocone copolyol | Trimethylsilylamodiemthicone | Behenoxyl Dimethicone |
| Hydroxypropyl Polysiloxane | Trimethylsiloxysilicates | Phenyl Trimethicone |
| PEG-modified dimethicone | Simethicone | |
| Dimethicone copolyol | Trimethicone | |
| Polydimethysiloxane |
I hope it will help you to make an informed decision about if and when to use silicones.
So are you a “cone” user? Why or why not? Please share your thoughts below.
Until next time
Hey Quitabee, thanks so much. I’m glad you found the article helpful 🙂
Great Dani! I can definitely attest to the flakiness and buildup causing itchy scalp. But you’re right ACV rinses will help with that but as you can see depending on the type of silicone, a shampoo may be needed to complete remove it from your hair. Thanks so much for commenting 🙂
Great article! I’ve heard about silicones but never got around to researching them. Will definitely be reading my labels more closely.
If I use silicones, I try to stay near the Herbal Essences line of conditioners. I’m six months into my transition, and just moved from the US to the UK, so they’re my fall back if a new product I try doesn’t work. The only drawback so far is flakiness, and some buildup, but that is usually helped out by a good ACV rinse. So far. LOL
Hey Ashley. Well as you can see ‘cones” have “good and bad” effects. You always use the table as a guide.. Thanks for commenting hon 🙂
Thanks so much Alexis. I’m glad you found it helpful 🙂
I try to be “cone” free but I know there are some ingredients I miss sometimes
This is very helpful love this post 🙂
Thanks lady! I love the natural me too 🙂
OMG girl your hair is just looking sooooooooooooooo Healty and Fab…i’m love the natural you 🙂