This is part 2 of this post where we talked about how to determine if you hair is moisture deficient or protein deficient through wet assessment. As mentioned, breakage occurs in zones, three to be exact, Zone 1, Zone 2 & Zone 3. Knowing what zone you’re in will determine your course of action.
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| Reproduced from info in The Science of Black Hair
According to The Science of Black Hair (TSOBH), there is a rule of thumb for determining your zone.
Zone 1 – Breakage is minimal and you are able to count the broken hairs on one hand. No large clumps of hair are usually lost during detangling.
Zone 2 – No more than 10-15 hairs lost on non-wash days and no more than 15-20 on wash days. Medium to large clumps of hair are lost during detangling.
Zone 3 – More than 10-15 hairs lost on non-wash days and more than 15-20 lost on wash days. See-through hair along the ends of the hair is usually common as well a many tiny pieces of broken hairs.
The following table contains suggested steps for correcting breakage based on zones and cause. (Reproduced from information in TSOBH)
|
| Zone |
Cause
|
Corrective Measure (suggested) |
| 1 | Low Moisture | Shampoo with Sulphate Free Shampoo |
| Apply Moisturizing Conditioner for 10-15 (heat is optional) | ||
| Allow hair to cool if heat is used & Rinse with cool water | ||
| Apply leave in conditioner if desired | ||
| *Do a wet assessment to determine if the next product needs to be one with more moisture or more protein | ||
| Apply Moisturizer | ||
| Seal with a oil or butter | ||
| 2&3 | Low Moisture | Shampoo with Sulphate Free Shampoo |
| Apply Moisturizing Conditioner for 15-20 (with heat) | ||
| Allow hair to cool & the Rinse with cool water | ||
| Apply a MOISTURIZING leave in conditioner | ||
| Seal with a oil or butter | ||
| 1 | Low Protein | Follow the same steps for correcting Moisture Deficiency |
| Substitute Protein rich conditioner, leave in and moisturizers instead of moisture rich ones | ||
| 2&3 | Low Protein | Carefully Detangle * Use an oil to help |
| Saturate hair with warm water for 1-2 minutes to remove topical debris | ||
| Use a low sulphate/mild clarifying shampoo to remove all products from hair | ||
| Apply a protein rich conditioning product, cover with plastic cap. Apply heat for 10-15 minutes or as directed. | ||
| Allow hair to cool and then rinse | ||
| Apply a creamy moisturzing conditioner for an additional 10-15 minutes | ||
| Rinse & blot dry | ||
| Apply a protein rich leave in (if desired) | ||
| Apply a protein rich moisturizer | ||
| Seal with a oil or butter | ||
| Ambiguous Hair | For the times when it’s hard to determine what your hair needs | |
| Shampoo with clarifying shampoo | ||
| Apply a MILD protein conditioner. Leave on for 10 minutes. Heat is optional | ||
| Rinse with cool water | ||
| Apply a MOISTURIZING deep conditioner for 10-15 minutes with heat. | ||
| *As an alternative you can combine the MILD protein conditioner with the Moisturizing DC and apply heat for 10-15 | ||
| Rinse with cool water | ||
| Blot hair dry with a t-shirt/microfiber towel | ||
| Apply a leave in (if desired) | ||
| Detangle and apply a moisturizer | ||
| Seal with a oil or butter | ||
Notes:
These are only suggestions from TSOBH. As usual, pay attention to the cues your hair is giving and adjust accordingly
If heat is used, always allow you hair to cool before rinsing
If you’re recovering from Protein Overload, the regimen listed under Ambiguous hair does not apply to you since it can take repeated treatments to “reverse” the damage done because protein rich products bind to the cuticle.
Since Moisture Overload/Protein deficiency/low protein is fairly easy to correct, you may find you that your balance is restored after only shampooing and conditioning.Continue to monitor your hair in order to determine when it’s time to switch to products that are more moisturizing.
I hope this post was helpful in at least assisting you in determining the next steps for treating any breakage you may be experiencing.
Have you had success with correcting low moisture/low protein induced breakage by using any of the suggested steps? Please feel free to share your experience.
Until next time
That’s great Kandy! Glad you found it helpful. I’ve had over-moisturized hair so I know it’s not fun 🙂
OMGoodness! You must have been reading my mind b/c I just did a protein treatment the other day! My hair has been really wispy and overly soft lately. I actually was experiencing some of the symptoms mentioned in this post (and your information is really great and not confusing at all:o). Right after I could tell the difference in how my hair felt. My kinks and curls had regained more structure and felt soft, but stronger. Thanks for the great post!