As mentioned in this post, in order for your hair to be healthy it must be ‘balanced” So the next question is, “how do I know if my hair is balanced and if it’s not, how do I get it there”?

 What is Balanced Hair?
The short answer is, hair that is soft and strong whether it’s wet or dry, kinda like Charmin toilet paper (yes I just compared hair to toilet paper), but I’m sure you understand what I mean ;). The Science of Black Hair describes it as “hair that is resilient and its protein strength and elastic moisture characteristics are well balanced within the fibers. Balanced, healthy hair feels  great, moves well and has amazing luster (it varies between shine/sheen depending on hair type).” If your hair is balanced it doesn’t break unless you subject it to aggressive handling, combing and detangling 🙂 If that’s your hair, then keep doing what your doing until your hair tells you otherwise.

In order to assess the state of your hair and determine exactly what it needs (protein or moisture), its recommended that your perform a wet assessment. Keep in mind that breakage is caused by too little/too much moisture as well as too much/too little protein,hence the need for balance.

Wet Assessment Guidelines 
If your hair:

  • (When Wet or Dry) Stretches slightly and returns to its original length without breaking, you are balanced! Stick with maintaining!
  • (When Wet or Dry) Stretches a little more than normal then breaks, you need more protein in your regimen.
  • (When Wet or Dry)Stretches, stretches, stretches with no significant breakage yet, add a bit more protein to your regimen.
  • (Wet)- Feels weak, gummy, mushy, or limp, you need to add more protein to your regimen.
  • (Wet or Dry) Experiences very little to no stretching, and simply snaps or breaks, you need to increase the moisture in your regimen.
  • (Dry) Feels rough, tough, hard, dry, tangly, brittle, or any combination of those, you need more moisture in your regimen.
  • Unsure? Err on the side of caution and give your hair more moisture. Source


In Part 2 of this post, we’ll learn on how to determine the next steps. 🙂

So now you know exactly what your hair needs based on the results of your wet assessment. In the event that it’s more protein we still just don’t want to go crazy and start piling every product with protein onto your hair because that can cause its own set of issues. Breakage usually occurs in “zones” according to The Science of Black Hair, and depending on the zone, you may need a mild protein conditioner as opposed to a strong reconstructive treatment. You also don’t want to over-moisturize either because that too can cause problems.

Have you had issues with maintaining balance in your hair? Please share your experience below.

Until next time





5 Comments

  1. July 8, 2012 / 5:07 AM

    Thank you Debbie! Yes, I find taking care of and learning about my hair lots of fun too! ☺

  2. May 16, 2012 / 10:29 PM

    Thank you for this information because now I know that I need to add a protein treatment to my hair care regimen!

  3. April 24, 2012 / 2:40 PM

    Awesome tips! Thanks for sharing! I used those guide lines when i was struggling with my relaxed hair years ago. Audrey used to post her articles on Lhcf. My relaxed hair didnt start growing till i figured out it needed more protein among other things (protective styling changed the game too) im always on the opposite end as a natural. ALWAYS need moisture. I still make sure to do a protein treatment every 3-4 months, it does make a difference. Taking good care of natural hair is kinda fun. Results are really worth it 🙂

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